My Climb to Machu Picchu
With a professional guide and a group of other trekkers, Frank Walter climbs Peru’s most precious mountain.
Written by Frank Walter
I have fully embraced trekking holidays over the last few years; many of the treks have been totally exhilarating with awe inspiring scenery but when I trekked to Machu Picchu in Peru, it was a unique opportunity to enjoy both an activity holiday and also visit an enigmatic ancient site deserted by the Incans in the 17th century.
I had wanted to do this particular 4-day Inca trail for a few years now so when I got the opportunity to take a couple weeks off in the spring I immediately looked at Peru holidays. It didn’t matter that I was planning to travel alone as I always get to meet cool people on these trips; it’s a singles holiday with a difference and I always leave having made some great friends.
I was advised to take a few days in Cusco (3350m) before starting the actual trek. Those people arriving from sea level understandably find it very hard to adjust to the altitude if they immediately start the climb without time to acclimatise. I knew that I needed a good fitness level; the altitude which rises at times in excess of 4,000 m can be tough for an unprepared hiker; however most of our group were very fit and it was unbelievably exhilarating.
I met our experienced guide Kim and the other 9 trekkers the day before we started the hike, having enjoyed the sites of Cusco. The trek itself is only 4 days long, so I had time to explore the city of Cusco; a trip to the Sacred Valley of the Incas is a must because the old market town of Pisac was a great place to hang out and watch the locals selling their treasures. I also visited Ollantaytambo, an old Inca fortress which was incredible, giving me an insight of what was to come when we reached the top.
The trekking was steady on the first day but the second pushed us a little as we had two climbs, an ascent of 1000m into Deadwomen’s Pass (4,125m), and a descent of 900m finishing with a further climb of 700m across to the second pass. We were shattered but enjoyed our evening and the delicious meal our cook had prepared. I was glad to have layers of clothing as temperatures plummeted after 6pm and I don’t remember my head hitting the pillow that night!
The Inca trail is 45 km, only a small part of the incredible 14,000 mile Inca road; it begins in the sacred valley of the Urubamba River and ends in the stunning ruins of Machu Picchu village. We climbed through a combination of high altitude mountain ranges in the Andes and into dense subtropical forest; it was magical to be there in April amongst such lush green scenery following the rainy season.
We stayed at the busy Winay Wayna camp the night before our final ascent; this site is on a high perch overlooking the Urubamba River. On arrival at sunset the ruin was an incredible sight; it looked like a spectacular amphitheatre nestled into the side of the huge mountain. We also had the first hot shower in three days which was very welcome! I was glad to head off to bed early as we had a 4.30am wake up call the next morning. The final morning felt a bit manic as we had to reach the last checkpoint at 5.30am. One of the many benefits of doing the Inca trail is that you get to see Machu Picchu before the other tourists. At sunrise the mist lifted and we gazed out over the valley from Sun Gate; these views surpassed expectation.
The Incas had turned this 5 square mile site into an extraordinary city. It was amazing to see that such a place was hidden up in the clouds, invisible from below and with so many ruins; 150 houses alongside fascinating temples, baths and palaces. I wondered how they could construct the buildings with such amazing precision as they didn’t use mortar; the large building blocks (some over 50 tons) fitted together perfectly. I spent a few very pleasant hours amongst the ruins and visited the Temple of Condor, Sacred Plaza and the Royal tomb. Although I had probably had enough exercise at this stage of the holiday I couldn’t resist a 20 min walk from a path at the top of the citadel to the Inca Bridge; this spans a sheer cliff face point and was worth the effort. This was a top holiday; the Inca trail is not just an invigorating climb, it’s also a rare and magical treat to view a lost civilisation and should not be missed.
Despite its popularity it a still looks magical and well preserved. I’ve often heard about the mad race to be the first on the last morning. A little early but well worth it.
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Since I haven’t visited Machu Picchu myself, I don’t know how well-preserved it really is but one thing’s for sure: mad races about being first on the top is not what blissful travel is about. Better to go slow and enjoy the scenery.
I visited Machu Picchu a few years ago, those are good pictures, but in person the place is even more spectacular. Sometimes clouds and fog add to the mysterious and surreal feeling you get among the ruins.
.-= RaysAdventures´s last blog ..Visiting Koh Samui, Thailand =-.
I can imagine it is. Reminds me of a hike I did, just above the fog and the clouds, in Grenoble a couple of years ago. Really beautiful.
I too had the chance to visit MP last year and have to say as beautiful as the pics may be…there is no comparison to being there in person. My advice is definitely do the hike, it makes reaching the top that much better. Here are some great tips to look at before your adventure. http://www.traveladvisortips.com/7-must-know-things-before-hiking-the-inca-trail/
Hi Erica,
I was in MP last year and its very beautiful. I did try to make it to the top early for a number of reasons: Firstly, only first 400 people are allowed to hike the Wayna Picchu mountain seen in picture 1&3 above, so if you don’t get there in time, then others will. Secondly, there is nothing unique to see on the way to the top. Finally, one can afford to spend only one day up there (tickets are too expensive) and if you have to see things at a leisurely pace or just sit on the mountain and do nothing, unfortunately racing is the only way out.
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Hi Priyank,
Only the first 400, and nothing special to see on the way up? I wasn’t aware of that. Then it obviously makes sense to aim to get there as early as possible
I would recommend to stay over night in Aguas Calientes and be the first ones up to Machu Picchu before the morining train comes in. You will have most of the morning without the large crowds that will arrive from Cuzco around 11am. I spent 2 days visiting the site giving time to soak up the atmosphere and climb Huana Picchu and get a whole different perspective from that peak.
.-= RaysAdventures´s last blog ..Visiting Koh Samui, Thailand =-.
Peru is definitely a golden place, it has everything that makes you have an unforgettable vacations. I suggest to everybody to visit this beautiful country and if you go, I recommend hiring Kawsay, a travel agency that works responsible tourism and give you the opportunity to know Peru in a different way. Its website is http://www.perufairtravel.com/
I made a tour in Peru last year and I was delighted with its food, its people and all the tourist attraction it has. I could know so many places like Cusco, Puno, Arequipa, Lima and Trujillo that have history and important archaeological sites. For me this trip it wouldn´t be the same without Libertador Hotels, one of the most important hotel chains in Peru. If you have the opportunity to travel to this amazing country you must stay in this hotel. For more information you can visit its website http://www.libertador.com.pe
I spend great moments in Machu Picchu. It’s a wonderful place. But I will always remember my journey to the Amazon in Peru; it was an unforgettable experience that changes my life. If you have the opportunity to visit Peru, you must go to the Amazon and stay for at least a week to know biological reserves, parks, rivers, and its flora and fauna. Also, I want to recommend you to stay in Rainforest Expeditions, an Amazon lodges in Peru that offers the best of this part of Peru. If you want more information visit its websites http://www.perunature.com
Cusco has many tourist attractions and activities that tourists can make. I traveled last summer and had a good time. I did the Inca Trail that was an unforgettable experience and knew places like Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley. If you have the opportunity to travel to Peru visit Cusco, it’s an amazing place. Also, look for a good hotel. I recommend Hotel in Sacred Valley that offers great attention and good services. Its website is http://www.cusco-realestate.com
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Salkantay Peru, The Best Salkantay Tour Operator
The expectations I had for the Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu were well and truly exceeded. The experiences I had throughout the one week trek continue to be at the front of my mind and are always brought up in conversations as an example to others looking for that memorable life experience. Notwithstanding the incredible scenery and landscapes, this was due, in large, to the capabilities and professionalism of my guide Edgar who made the trek extremely enjoyable and who remained flexible and adaptive to my changing needsthroughout.
If you have any questions about Salkantay Peru or my time in Peru please don’t hesitate to ask me.