Category Archives: Central & South America

How to Eat Like a Local in Peru, Sin Carne

Vegan Ceviche How to Eat Like a Local in Peru, Sin Carne

Vegan Ceviche de Tofu. CC Image by Lablascovegmenu (Flickr).

By LAURA ELISE

Peruvian cuisine is rife with delicacies that once could have been your pet but vegetarians won’t have to worry about leaving the table hungry while in Peru. There are numerous vegetarian options and flavors to discover, if you know where to look. Here are four tips for eating meat-free in Peru.

1. Know what You’re Ordering.

A common mistake when trying to eat vegetarian in Peru is messing up the vocabulary. Although the Spanish word “carne” does technically translate into “meat,” in Peru it refers to heavier meats, such as beef or pork. Ordering a dish “sin carne” (without meat) means you’re still likely find chicken or seafood scattered among your vegetables. To be completely clear, you want to be as direct as possible. Something along the lines of “Sin carne, pollo, y pescado; solo verduras” (without meat, chicken or fish, only vegetables), will increase your chances of being happy with your order.

2. Know How to Substitute.

Some of Peru’s most delicious and well-known plates are easily converted into vegetarian dishes without losing any of the authenticity or flavors. I eat meat, but my boyfriend does not, so I’ve had many dishes the standard and the vegetarian way—giving me a pretty good perspective for comparison.

Ceviche. This is a classic seafood dish, especially popular along the coast where locals like to eat the fish fresh the day they’re caught. Peruvian ceviche consists of chucks of white fish marinated in lime juice and served with onions and chili. Vegetarians can sample the same flavor and texture by having mushroom ceviche. The mushrooms are sliced thin to replace the fish. Since the onion and lime flavor is strong in both dishes, there is little difference between them. Mushrooms are expensive in Peru, however, so don’t expect a big price difference.

Lomo Saltado. This dish is found throughout Peru. It features a bottom layer of French fries topped with stir-fried vegetables (tomatoes, onions, peppers) and strips of beef, usually accompanied with a pile of rice. The best option is to replace the beef with strips of soya, as that will soak up the flavors. However, you can always simply order the dish with just the vegetables. Often, you can ask for extra vegetables to replace the meat.

Chifa. Peruvian and Chinese fusion is common in Peru. Local Chinese restaurants are called chifas and are popular for their inexpensive prices and heaping portions. Because the menus usually include dozens of different options, chefs are usually very flexible and let you make your own dish. Just make sure you have them write it down to make sure there is no miscommunication.

3. Go Ancient.

The most famous ancient Peruvian civilization, the Inca Empire, did not eat a meat-heavy diet. They lived on Andean staples, such as potatoes and quinoa. Today these dishes are still prevalent in Peru and used creatively in many dishes. There are over 4,000 types of potatoes in Peru, and they are cooked and served in variety of ways. Quinoa is a pseudo-grain with nutrient properties surpassing wheat, maize, and rice; it’s often touted as a superfood and a good source of protein. Yuca (cassava) is another tasty option.

4. Go Tropical.

Over half of Peru’s landmass is covered by the Amazon rainforest and basin. It is no surprise then that jungle fruits are bountiful. Travelers will find many fruits that often don’t make it to western supermarkets, and if they do, arrive at a much higher price. Several interesting fruits come from the Andes as well. Juices are the most common way to consume the exotic fruits, but many are eaten whole, or cooked into desserts. Lucuma is extremely popular, used as a flavoring for many desserts and ice creams. Chirimoya is also found in desserts, but can be eaten fresh as well. The fruit is creamy and makes a nice treat at the beach. Granadilla may be the oddest of the bunch. With an orange shell that is cracked open rather than peeled, the inside is full of gooey seeds, which can be slurped up as a healthy treat.

Laura Elise is a Lima resident and long-term South America traveler who writes for SA Luxury Expeditions (http://www.saluxuryexpeditions.com/).

Lesser Known Brazil

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By KEVIN BALL

Brazil has had a lot of attention focused on it lately, with two of the world’s biggest sporting events, The FIFA World Cup and Olympic Games, heading to the planet’s 5th largest country in 2014 and 2016. While these major events are likely to see millions flocking to cities like Rio and Sao Paulo it must be said that there is plenty more to Brazil than big cities and big events.

Buzios

Buzios Lesser Known Brazil

If you are looking for a beach resort that is a little more relaxed then Buzios is ideal. Buzios is a medium sized town that has catered for tourists long enough to make it a comfortable destination for travellers but small enough for it maintain a quaint charm. Buzios became famous as a quiet hideaway in the 60’s when Bridget Bardot came to the town as a means of escaping the paparazzi in Rio; Buzios became a favourite destination for the star thereafter and visitors can still see a bronze statue of Bridget in the town. Water sports are also incredibly popular in Buzios due its beaches providing excellent surfing conditions.

Olinda

Olinda Lesser Known Brazil

Olinda is a city for those that appreciate history. The city’s downtown area is a world heritage site and much of the city has had its colonial era appearance preserved. There were intense struggles between French, Portuguese and Dutch settlers in the city between 1535 and 1640 and the varied and interesting architecture boldly displays this clash of cultures in bricks and mortar. There are also a number of museums, churches and civic buildings that are open to the public, allowing any traveller to soak up “old Brazil”. The hotel infrastructure is limited in Olinda but it is close to the much larger city of Recife so if you want to explore during the day but retreat to luxury and comfort in the evening then this is entirely possible.

Fernando de Noronha

Fernando de Noronha Lesser Known Brazil

Fernando de Noronha is one of the most secluded tourist destinations in Brazil. It is a group of islands off the coast that can only be reached by plane or boat and allows just 450 visitors per day. Wildlife is one of the main attractions of the islands and you can expect to see dolphins, turtles, tegu lizards and doves. The island is also home to some beautiful and exotic plants. That said, due to this wealth of natural beauty there is a conservation charge which is made payable upon entering the island; this charge allows the local population, of just over 3,000 people, to maintain the islands untainted environmental splendour. Staying on the islands is also quite expensive so Fernando de Noronha may not suit everybody’s budget; but this is as close to an ideal island paradise as one can imagine.

This article was written by Kevin Ball for Brazilian travel experts: Sunset Visitor.

The Blooming Desert in Atacama

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Blooming Cactus The Blooming Desert in Atacama

Blooming Cactus. CC Image by Jesse The Traveler (Flickr).

Patagonia – the region, not country – covering the lower halves of Chile and Argentina is known for its abundance of marine life, soaring, craggy outcrops covered in snow, and its sense of wilderness at ‘the end of the world’. But just north of Patagonia, in Chile, is a vast desert.

Located at high altitude, it’s not a baking hot desert, not wavering in a dry, unbearable heat like the Sahara. But the Atacama Desert is the driest in the world and, despite the lack of water, an event takes place here in this harsh environment which is unmatched anywhere else on the planet: the flowering of the desert.

When rain does briefly fall in the spring, arrays of blindingly colourful flowers appear, as if from nowhere from the moon-like landscape. Cacti and seeds that have lain hidden under the soils suddenly burst into life and the desert temporarily becomes a garden. Over 200 types of plant species add colour to the display. The ground can be carpeted with little blue flowers called azulillos, round pink ‘guanaco feet’, and bright sunshine yellow petals. The flowers bring out with them a greater variety of wildlife, from insects to birds and lizards that you wouldn’t normally see.

When to go

The blooming of the desert happens between the months of September and November, in the years when winter rainfall has been higher than normal. The peak is typically the second half of October. Be warned – it doesn’t happen every year!

Where to go

Be sure to check out both the coastal portion of the desert and that further inland, as the scenery and range of flowers are very different and equally beautiful. In fact, the flowering of the desert can be seen over an area of almost 200 kilometres between the city of Vallenar to the north of the city of Copiapó, in both coastal areas and towards the interior sectors and the mountain range. Huasco is known as one of the best spots to appreciate the blooms and you can fly here from the vibrant capital of Santiago in just 45 minutes. San Pedro de Atacama is another top destination, and here there are a few luxury desert lodges tucked around the outskirts, which are fantastic places to stay in.

How to see it

The Atacama Desert is a fragile ecosystem and its plants are easily damaged. As more visitors have been flocking to the region to admire the spectacle, an impact is being felt in the local environment. Be cautious about taking 4×4 excursions out into the desert, as it’s these sort of tours that have caused damage to the area. Be sure to book with a reputable tour company who are clear on their commitment to caring for the desert and its wildlife.

This article was made possible thanks to Exsus Luxury Holidays.

Backpacking Through South America

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Peru Mountains Backpacking Through South America

Loaded with ancient ruins, stretches of white sandy beaches, tropical forests and picturesque trails; South America is a playground for backpackers.

For first-time backpackers, it can be a daunting task deciding from where in this vast continent to begin your next exciting adventure, however one thing’s for sure – there’s no shortage of options. From historic landmarks to scenic trails, you are sure to fill up your itinerary quick smart!

With a little bit of planning and some good advice, you’ll be able to hit the bull’s eye and discover regions packed with exciting sites for fun adventures, while keeping an eye on that all-important thing – your budget. Finding the cheapest flights from Australia can help you pack more into your visit, and similarly, you’re bound to find plenty of hostels and hotels in your journey to punctuate your trip if you’re aiming to keep your spend down.

Here are our top-tips of things to do if you’re thinking of backpacking through South America:

Inca Trail, Peru

Machu Picchu Backpacking Through South America

Perhaps the most obvious ‘must-do’ activity in South America is the Inca Trail, this is the attraction most backpackers flock to. You’ll find a number of route options according to the degree of difficulty and of course, how much time you have.

Picking one, however – the 5-day trail – sees you hiking along the Inca Trail leading to the magnificent Machu Picchu in Peru. The trail is 26 miles of spectacular beautiful mountain scenery, subtropical jungle, lush cloud-forest and a mélange of ruins, tunnels and Inca paving stones, that lead to the mystic Lost City of the Incas.

Along the trek, you’ll cross the Vilcanota River up to the village of Wayllabamba where you’ll likely spend the night by campsite; equipped with showers, toilets and a small restaurant. The highest pass of the trail is 4,200 meters, and once you reach it, you’ll no doubt be celebrating having completed it!

From there, the descent to Pacamayo is steep although not difficult so long as you are sure-footed. It will take you around an hour to climb up the ruins of Runkaracay, before finally arriving at Sayacmarca – via a remarkably designed stone staircase. Your group will likely take a short break along the way to take in the beautiful portrait of cloud-forest filled with hanging mosses, colourful orchids, tree ferns and flowers. Grab your camera here folks – you won’t be disappointed.

Before starting the final leg of the trail to Machu Picchu, you can stay at the Trekkers Hostel and enjoy a well-deserved beer! The hostel has dormitory beds, or if you’re really counting your pennies – you can sleep on the floor for only a dollar.

Not long before reaching Machu Picchu, you’ll find yourself passing the ruins of Winay Wayna. The ruins are impressive and again, a good excuse to whip out your camera for some snaps. The ruins with their agricultural terraces and 10 stoned baths – that were likely used for ritual cleansing in the day – are awe inspring to say the least.

The final trail contours around a mountainside with a vertical flight of 50 steps leading to Machu Picchu. Trust us when we say that nothing can prepare you for this magnificent site. In what will be a “rub your eyes moment”, the Lost City of the Incas showcases a peek into ancient history with the Temple of the Sun, Nusta Palace, Sacred Plaza, Chamber of the Ornaments, Intihuatana Pyramid, House of the Hight Priest and much more.

If you’re looking for the backpack adventure of a lifetime, the Inca Trail should be one of your first picks, and you can find more information about it from Peru Tourism’s site here.

Cotopaxi, Ecuador

Hiking to the summit of Cotopaxi at Ecuador’s Cotopaxi Nation Park is a dreamlike adventure in and of itself. Cotopaxi is one of the highest active volcanoes in the world boasting with picturesque scenery of green plains, sparkling lakes and wild horses.

It’ll take you around three days to reach the highest refuge cabin at the base of the mountain, at which the altitude is around 4,000 meters, allowing your body to acclimatise easily. If you’re lucky enough, you’ll be treated to moonlit nights with the beauty of the volcano in the shadows.

Hitting the snow line, you’ll soon be prompted to strap on some warmer gear. From here, reaching the summit at 5,800 will take some work, but once you arrive on top, it makes for an unbelievable feeling of accomplishment. The breathtaking view of the surrounding valley is simply breathtaking.

Torres Del Paine, Chile

Backpacking through the Torres Del Paine is a mesmerizing experience, and one to definitely include on your ‘to-do’ list. This adventure is certain to challenge your wildest dreams.

Nestled in the south of Chile, it can be reached from the nearby cities of Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas. Along the route, you’ll find marked paths and modest refugios for basic services and shelter. Every day of the hike provides vistas of the spectacular granite Towers of Paine, with delightful sightings of pink flamingos, nandus, condors and herds of guanacos.

Jaw-dropping views of the Towers of Paine topping 8,000 feet follows you along the W circuit, leading to Glacier Grey and Lago Grey. Gazing at the turquoise-coloured icebergs sprawled across the lake, it’ll have you entranced in a moment of silence, as you marvel at this wonder of nature.

Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia

Another notable journey not to be missed, is a hike to Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia – the world’s largest salt flat lake stretching over 4,000 miles. This place is so surreal that you’ll think you’re on another planet.

Hiking through the salts, you’ll be led to the desert, featuring amazing rock formations, colourful red and green lakes, bursting geysers, hot spring baths and Fish Island. The tranquility is soul reaching, and the scenery unceasingly spectacular. The Salar de Uyuni is one of Bolivia’s treasures that will get even the most discerning backpacker excited.

Don’t think about it…just do it!

Backpacking through South America will undoubtedly leave you with unforgettable memories of majestic cities, captivating landscapes, and…, new friends. What’s more, there’s plenty of ways to cut down costs when you’re over there. Do yourself a favour: take the plunge!

Planning a Honeymoon in Brazil

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Buzios Planning a Honeymoon in Brazil

Búzios. CC Image by José Francisco V.C. (Flickr).

A honeymoon is often the one holiday in your life where you can throw caution to the winds, leave budget worries behind you, and plan the holiday you’ve always wanted. But what if the two of you want slightly different things? Let’s face it, it’s not exactly unusual for even the best-suited bride and groom to have rather different ideas about what makes for the perfect holiday. One of you might be the active type, never happier than when biking down a mountain or abseiling off a cliff; the other might prefer to lie back with a good book on a beach somewhere. Not all destinations let you easily combine the two, but a honeymoon in Brazil might be just the way to do it.

Most people find weddings at least a little bit tiring and even the most energetic bride and groom usually look forward to at least a little down time once the wedding is over. Fortunately, Brazil has some of the world’s best beaches. You’re likely to fly into Rio de Janeiro, which has some superb city beaches (Ipanema and Copacabana are both hard to beat) but assuming you’d like something less public, you’ll probably want to head out of town to somewhere a little more exclusive.

A couple of hours to the north of Rio, you’ll find the lovely Buzios peninsula, which was brought to the world’s attention by Brigitte Bardot in the 1960s. The peninsula is dotted with tiny coves – on one side facing towards the mainland with golden sands and calm, clear waters, and on the other facing out into the Atlantic with excellent waves for surfing and wind-surfing. And if you rent a dune-buggy you can just hop between the two!

Alternatively, and particularly if your honeymoon in Brazil is slated for the summer, you can hop on a flight up to the north-east of Brazil. Up towards the equator, you’re guaranteed beach weather all year-round, and this is also where you’ll find arguably Brazil’s very best beaches. Two stand-out favourites are Porto de Galinhas and Praia do Forte. The latter is just outside Brazil’s colonial capital of Salvador, so you’re within easy reach of its gorgeous Pelourinho district, with its cobbled streets and painted colonial mansions, but you might find it hard to drag yourself away from the white sands of Praia do Forte anyway. With a backdrop of coconut palms and a turtle sanctuary, it really is a beautiful spot, and here you’re also within easy reach of some of Brazil’s best trekking in the epic landscape of the Chapada Diamantina, and some great white-water rafting in Itacare. If you’re all about relaxing, then Praia do Forte can offer two of Brazil’s top beach hotels, the Tivoli Eco, and the Iberostar Bahia – both are superb choices for any honeymoon.

Porto de Galinhas is further south near the city of Recife, and is regularly voted the best beach in Brazil. The 5-mile long stretch of white sands is lined with some hotels as well, such as the Nannai resort which offers deluxe bungalows with private pools, set among stunning gardens, just metres from the beach. It’s not just about relaxation here either, though. Apart from the full range of watersports, you can enjoy horse-riding and mountain-biking along the dunes and hills just back from the coast, or some paragliding in the air above it.

And all this is without venturing away from the coast at all. If you’d like to ensure you get some adventure on your honeymoon in Brazil, then you can easily take a trip into the Amazon jungle or the huge Pantanal wetlands, to see the full range of Brazilian wildlife from piranhas to jaguars. Or spend a few days visiting the giant Iguazu Falls. These enormous waterfalls are one of the undoubted highlights of Brazil, so much so that on being taken to see them during a state visit to Brazil in the 1930s, Eleanor Roosevelt reportedly exclaimed “Poor Niagara!” Of course, Oscar Wilde famously described Niagara Falls themselves as “the second great disappointment to American brides” but that’s another matter entirely.

Rio de Janeiro Design Hostels – Travel Well on a Budget

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By BRAZILIAN GURU

Traveling around the world on a budget? If one of your stops is Rio de Janeiro, I’ve got the places for you! This marvelous city has become very expensive for the common traveler. So, during a short stay in Rio last year, I was on a mission to find affordable and cool places in town.

Mission accomplished. I found two great hostel options in the upscale and trendy neighborhood of Leblon. However, before making any pre-judgment, I booked a stay in both places to get an in-depth opinion of each establishment.

Lounge Z.Bra Rio de Janeiro Design Hostels Travel Well on a Budget

Lounge at Z.Bra

First stop, Z. Bra hostel. This place is located on Av. General San Martin only one block away from the beach. The hostel offers a very modern atmosphere with neon colored sofas, tables and chairs in the lounge area, and purple capsule-looking bunk beds in the rooms. The staff is very friendly and super-keen on sharing local tips of their home city. One thing that really differentiated this hostel from others is the individual bathrooms, each one has a toilet and shower so you can close the door and have some privacy. The prices start at R$41, and includes a tasty breakfast of toast, coffee, jam and cheese.

Z.Bra website: z.brahostel.com

Leblon Spot Rio de Janeiro Design Hostels Travel Well on a Budget

Common room in Leblon Spot.

Next Leblon Spot. Here I felt truly at home. While the other hostel is more targeted to the young party crowd, here the architecture is composed of wooden furniture and a large living room with white sofas and a flat screen TV. In the common area, there is an American style kitchen with large counters, which makes breakfast all the more sociable. The rooms are simple; white walls and bunk beds. The bathrooms are in locker room style, however everything is very clean. The location is a little further away from the beach on Rua Dias Ferreira, which is where all the best bars are located. Prices start at R$55 a person.

Leblon Spot website: leblonspot.com

Aside from the awesome price, these two spots are great places to meet cool travelers with great stories to tell. I know I did, and they are my friends to this day!

Brazilian Guru is a travel blog written directly from Brazil! Check us out for travel tips, good restaurants, fabulous parties, beautiful beaches and only the best of Brazil at http://brazilianguru.com/.

Audio Walking Tours of Buenos Aires’ Palermo and Rome’s Trastevere with MPTours

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After a yoga session, breakfast of home baked bread and oat muesli with cinnamon, well-needed time outside in the sunshine, lunch, and a bit of chilling at home, I listened to Buenos Aires – Palermo by MPTours, creators of some of the most affordable MP3 audio tours online.

Thanks to co-founder Paul Iribarne, I received two complimentary audio tours, Buenos Aires – Palermo and Rome – Trastevere, in late 2008. At first I wanted to listen once I had visited these two neighborhoods in person but since I don’t yet know when, I rather share this with you today.

mptours Audio Walking Tours of Buenos Aires Palermo and Romes Trastevere with MPTours

Steven and Paul, two former college roommates, assembled a dream team of professional tour guides, historians, talented writers and actors, local musicians, award-winning sound engineers, and hip web designers to fulfil their vision. The result speaks for itself – high quality, fascinating MP3 tours available in multiple languages for people all over the world. Online, rental, or CD.

Made for independent travelers who want be immersed in new places, MPTours aims to provide touring experiences that will transport you into the heart of a city and appeal to all five senses. You only need an MP3 player or an iPod (and preferably comfortable shoes). No unnecessary schedules, boring tour guides, or waiting for others. You set the pace and decide what, where, and when. If you notice a place that isn’t included in the itinerary, just press pause and return whenever you feel like it.

Each MPTour cost $ 14.99. Apart from the MP3 files, you will receive a printable PDF map that highlights points of interest. To get  a better grasp of the city, make sure to read the CITY INFO section before taking a tour.

Buenos Aires – Palermo

One of legendary writer Jorge Luis Borges’ celebrated areas – designer stores, high-class restaurants, superb architecture and bohemian flavor have made Palermo one of the most eclectic and popular microcosms in Buenos Aires.

I instantly feel a liking to Marina, the narrator of Buenos Aires – Palermo, who has lived in the neighborhood since she was a little girl. She calls herself a “pioneer of the new Palermo” and combines travel tips with tales from her childhood (including where she had her first kiss at age 12 and an anecdote involving her grandparents). This mixture of personal stories and travel suggestions works very well, and the street sounds and relaxing background music further add to the quality of the tour. It consists of 12 tracks and shows you interesting aspects of Buenos Aires’ largest neighborhood. Other Buenos Aires tours include Recoleta and San Telmo.

Rome – Trastevere

Discover the neighborhood locals call the “real Rome,” medieval Trastevere, where the rich and powerful once built luxury villas on the Tiber, and where today’s savvy Romans now come to shop, to eat and to play.

Nina, the narrator of Rome – Trastevere, talks a bit faster than Marina and concentrates more on the sights but the two tours offer the same focus on quality and totally make me want to visit Buenos Aires and Rome to follow the tours on location. I would especially like to admire Nina’s favorite view in Trastevere.

The full San Francisco tour of every neighborhood and landmark in the city also sounds appealing. And, whenever I  travel to London, I look forward to experience the London audio tours of Brixton, King’s Road, Camden Town, Soho and Brick Lane. But for now, dinner and hopefully a good movie with my housemates.

If you want to learn more about MPTours, or purchase a tour, visit MP3 Audio Walking Tours of Buenos Aires, Rome, London and San Francisco.

My Climb to Machu Picchu

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machu picchu My Climb to Machu Picchu

By FRANK WALTER

I have fully embraced trekking holidays over the last few years; many of the treks have been totally exhilarating with awe inspiring scenery but when I trekked to Machu Picchu in Peru, it was a unique opportunity to enjoy both an activity holiday and also visit an enigmatic ancient site deserted by the Incans in the 17th century.

I had wanted to do this particular four-day Inca trail for a few years now so when I got the opportunity to take a couple weeks off in the spring I immediately looked at Peru holidays. It didn’t matter that I was planning to travel alone as I always get to meet cool people on these trips; it’s a singles holiday with a difference and I always leave having made some great friends.

I was advised to take a few days in Cusco (3350 m) before starting the actual trek. Those people arriving from sea level understandably find it very hard to adjust to the altitude if they immediately start the climb without time to acclimatise. I knew that I needed a good fitness level; the altitude which rises at times in excess of 4,000 m can be tough for an unprepared hiker; however most of our group were very fit and it was unbelievably exhilarating.

I met our experienced guide Kim and the other nine trekkers the day before we started the hike, having enjoyed the sites of Cusco. The trek itself is only four days long, so I had time to explore the city of Cusco; a trip to the Sacred Valley of the Incas is a must because the old market town of Pisac was a great place to hang out and watch the locals selling their treasures. I also visited Ollantaytambo, an old Inca fortress which was incredible, giving me an insight of what was to come when we reached the top.

The trekking was steady on the first day but the second pushed us a little as we had two climbs, an ascent of 1,000m into Deadwomen’s Pass (4125 m), and a descent of 900 m finishing with a further climb of 700 m across to the second pass. We were shattered but enjoyed our evening and the delicious meal our cook had prepared. I was glad to have layers of clothing as temperatures plummeted after 6pm and I don’t remember my head hitting the pillow that night!

The Inca trail is 45 km, only a small part of the incredible 14,000 mile Inca road; it begins in the sacred valley of the Urubamba River and ends in the stunning ruins of Machu Picchu village. We climbed through a combination of high altitude mountain ranges in the Andes and into dense subtropical forest; it was magical to be there in April amongst such lush green scenery following the rainy season.

We stayed at the busy Winay Wayna camp the night before our final ascent; this site is on a high perch overlooking the Urubamba River. On arrival at sunset the ruin was an incredible sight; it looked like a spectacular amphitheatre nestled into the side of the huge mountain. We also had the first hot shower in three days which was very welcome! I was glad to head off to bed early as we had a 4.30am wake up call the next morning. The final morning felt a bit manic as we had to reach the last checkpoint at 5.30am. One of the many benefits of doing the Inca trail is that you get to see Machu Picchu before the other tourists. At sunrise the mist lifted and we gazed out over the valley from Sun Gate; these views surpassed expectation.

The Incas had turned this five square mile site into an extraordinary city. It was amazing to see that such a place was hidden up in the clouds, invisible from below and with so many ruins; 150 houses alongside fascinating temples, baths and palaces. I wondered how they could construct the buildings with such amazing precision as they didn’t use mortar; the large building blocks (some over 50 tons) fitted together perfectly. I spent a few very pleasant hours amongst the ruins and visited the Temple of Condor, Sacred Plaza and the Royal tomb. Although I had probably had enough exercise at this stage of the holiday I couldn’t resist a 20 min walk from a path at the top of the citadel to the Inca Bridge; this spans a sheer cliff face point and was worth the effort. This was a top holiday; the Inca trail is not just an invigorating climb, it’s also a rare and magical treat to view a lost civilisation and should not be missed.