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Q&A With Senior Trip Leader Alexander Lemunge: Kilimanjaro Trekking

hike Q&A With Senior Trip Leader Alexander Lemunge: Kilimanjaro Trekking

Alex Lemunge shows tourists the route they will pass to summit Kilimanjaro.

By NAVAYA OLE NDASKOI

The Kilimanjaro glaciers are turning straight to vapour. The Arrow glacier is no longer on Kilimanjaro. The Heim glacier was very famous for glacier climbing before 1996. Now almost all of it has evaporated. The Northern ice fields are mostly gone as well. In an interview with Navaya ole Ndaskoi, Alexander Lemunge, Executive Director of East African Voyage Ltd and a Senior Trip Leader who led thousands of tourists to the top of Mount Kilimanjaro, said these are footprints of global warming confronting mankind.

Navaya ole Ndaskoi: Would you mind telling our readers about your self?

Alexander Lemunge: I was born on the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro in 1968. I spent my early life supporting the family like many children in Africa and attaining formal education. In 1997 I traveled to USA to become a certified Wilderness First Responder and CPR Emergency Cardiac Care Provider. During my stay in US, I attended leadership training with NOLS (National Outdoor Leadership School) completing the Outdoor Educator Course.

I also attended several other courses with NOLS in East Africa. In the meantime, I studied a lot about High Altitude Physiology and rock climbing. I attended an interpretation course conducted by Richard Estes who is a well known researcher, conservationist and writer who has been doing field work in Africa since 1963. I attended a two-week course at the college of Africa Wildlife Management at Mweka, Tanzania. I also worked with Tanzania National Parks Authority to organize and recruit over 500 mountain guides, currently leading trips on Mount Kilimanjaro. I trained Kilimanjaro and Meru rescue teams in rescue skills and evacuation.

Currently I am doing Bachelor of Arts (BA) in Tourism at the Open University of Tanzania. Today I have my own company called East African Voyage Company Limited and I still work on contract basis with companies as a trip leader in Tanzania, leading treks on Kilimanjaro and safari. I have been in the tourism industry in Tanzania since 1994. I led over 150 ascents on Mount Kilimanjaro. The clients I led have successfully climbed to the summit of Kilimanjaro on over 95 per cent.

What makes East African Voyage Company Ltd different from other tour operators in Tanzania?

A combination of factors makes us different. Our guiding experience for example has been very instrumental. We also developed a very smooth relationship with our clients. We know the rules of tourism very much. The three of us have one thing in common: to start a company, to start a company that is compliant to the laws and regulations, and determination to provide the best quality services to our clients as much as possible. We do this successfully by ensuring that one of us must lead every group until such a time we have a well trained group of trip leaders.

We also offer periodic training to our staff as a strategy to always improve the quality of the services we provide. In the meantime we have been struggling to diversify our products. Apart from the well-known traditional wildlife tour, we tailor-make itineraries that also include the less known products such as cultural tours meaning that we visit and stay with societies like nomadic Maasai, Hadzabe hunter-gatherers, Mbugwe fishermen, Iraqw agro-pastoralists and many others. We also organize walking safari, hiking, biking and others. We are role models in eco-tourism. We link clients, communities and the environment. We are born in the Greater Serengeti Region and we know the challenges facing the wildlife, people and the environment. We therefore struggle to address these challenges.

How do you describe the tourism infrastructure in Tanzania?

Infrastructure is very broad. I would like to comment on its three aspects. First, the roads are generally in poor condition. During the rain season matters goes from bad to worse. This is responsible for the high and low seasons. Tourists could flow all year round if the roads are improved.

The second problem is about the flights. Very few airlines land on Kilimanjaro International Airport and Julius Nyerere International Airport. So to this day, most tourists coming to Tanzania come through Nairobi, Kenya. The problem of airports, local and international, needs to be addressed very urgently to encourage international airlines to land straight into Tanzania. Finally I would like to say that accommodation is still an acute problem that also needs to be addressed.

kili hike Q&A With Senior Trip Leader Alexander Lemunge: Kilimanjaro Trekking

Alexander (in a white t-shirt), and a guide, lead tourists on Kilimanjaro.

You have been leading trips attempting to climb Kilimanjaro for over 10 years. Do you think porters who carry items of the clients are properly taken care-off?

There is no set-up system of how much each trip is sold. In effect different companies sell the product differently. Very few sell the product expensively and the majority sells very cheaply. Those who sell cheaply fail to pay porters and other staff. Some delay payment of their staff for months. Others do not pay at all, leaving porters to depend tips from tourists. This in turn seriously affects the quality of service they provide.

The living standard of porters is low. My opinion is that they should set-up an association with offices in Arusha, Moshi and at respective gate through which we climb Kilimanjaro such as Machame, Marangu, Mweka and Rongai. This will make them as accessible to porters as much as humanly possible. It will in turn improve their working conditions. I tried to the best of my abilities to support them in their claims since I understand the importance of their work and the need for their welfare to be taken seriously.

You climbed Kilimanjaro to the summit more than 150 times. Do you see any signs of global warming on the ice of Kilimanjaro?

Of course, yes. The Arrow glacier is no longer on Kilimanjaro. When I started to climb in 1993 it was almost in its full shape of an arrow. The Heim glacier was very famous for glacier climbing before 1996. Now almost all of it has melted. The Northern ice fields are mostly gone as well. Half of Fortangular glacier is no more. All these have led to rock falls especially on the Western Breach. As you can understand global warming is responsible for this. Scientific evidence indicates that there will be no glacier at all remaining on Kilimanjaro by 2025. This is a sad fact confronting mankind.

Around 40,000 tourists attempt to climb Kilimanjaro every year. What are the environmental implications of this? There are numerous camping sites. This means land is being cleared. When you are talking about 40,000 tourists you are talking, to be lenient, of a minimum of 120,000 people if two porters are attached to every tourist. Now this is a very serious crowd. Water consumption is increasing destroying the environment forever. The human waste and other trash are also growing. Tourists, porters and guides should be serious trained about the leave no trace philosophy, you must take out every thing you took in.

What do you advice Tanzania National Parks Authority (TANAPA), a Government agency that manages Kilimanjaro and other National Parks in Tanzania?

Lemosho trail is the fastest growing route. Yet it is surprisingly inaccessible. TANAPA and Kilimanjaro National Park must work on this, if I were to advice.

Can you explain technically about climbing Kilimanjaro?

Climbing Kilimanjaro is physically demanding. You should be in a good shape before attempting climb. On going heart and lungs diseases can seriously affect climb. At 19,340 feet oxygen is half of what you get at sea level. The heart and the lungs should be working properly. I must stress that someone with any history of such problems must consult his or her physician before attempting to climb Kilimanjaro.

How many routes are there, and which one do you prefer?

There are seven routes which are Lemosho, Londorosi, Machame, Marangu, Mweka, Rongai and Umbwe. I prefer Lemosho through Barafu as well as Machame. These routes are more scenic and least crowded compared to the rest. This gives a climber enough time to acclimatize and summit. In addition clients sleep in tented camps instead of in cortèges. Tented camps are not noisy and they give a client some privacy.

“On Kilimanjaro I Felt Like Sitting on the Wing of an Airplane”

andres peres On Kilimanjaro I Felt Like Sitting on the Wing of an Airplane

Andres during his adventure in Tanzania.

By NAVAYA OLE NDASKOI

Kilimanjaro, the highest free-standing mountain in the world stands proudly in Tanzania. Andres Perez, a lawyer at the United Nations International Criminal Tribunal for Rwanda based in Arusha, Tanzania, climbed it. Supported by East African Voyage Company Ltd, he biked from Arusha town to Mount Meru, the second highest mountain in the country, which he climbed in four days. He biked to Mount Kilimanjaro and actually climbed it to the summit, an imperious 5,895 meters above the sea level, in seven days, and biked back to Arusha. He calls this unique life adventure ‘a mountaineering duathlon’.

Navaya ole Ndaskoi: Would you mind telling the readers about yourself?

Andres Perez: My name is Andres Perez. I am a citizen of Venezuela and the United States. I live in Arusha, Tanzania, where I work as a lawyer for the United Nations Criminal Tribunal for Rwanda. Ever since I was a child I always enjoyed going into the outdoors and pushing myself with outdoor adventures.

How long have you been in Arusha?

I have been living in Arusha since this February. I was also here for three months last year, from September to November.

What other high mountains did you climb and how are they different from and similar to Mount Kilimanjaro, if you ever climbed any other mountain?

I climbed a couple of other mountains in my life, each has its own character. Just a year ago I did a trek through Northern India in the Ladakh Province. I trekked from Lamayuru to Alchi via the Stakspi La. After a day and half of resting, I summated a mountain called Stok Kangri together with two of my brothers. The mountain is over 6,000 meters above sea level. I also summated Tronador in Argentina as well as Muhavura in Uganda on the border with Rwanda and several other smaller mountains.

One thing that set Mount Kilimanjaro and Mount Meru aside from all of them is the fact that they are both free standing. I have never ever been on a mountain that is as majestic as Mount Kilimanjaro. I felt like I was sitting on the wing of an airplane when I was on the summit. It was absolutely amazing.

climbing western breach On Kilimanjaro I Felt Like Sitting on the Wing of an Airplane

Andres climbing Kilimanjaro via the Western Breach, the most challenging of all routes.

Did you climb the other mountains you mentioned through tour operators in the respective countries or how did you climb those mountains?

Normally I would climb by myself, self supported or accompanied by a ranger when necessary. This is actually my first experience with a tour company and was a very positive one. Outside Tanzania I never climbed through any tour company.

Is it a good thing that people climb Kilimanjaro and other mountains in Tanzania through tour companies unlike in other countries?

A lot of people are able to summit Kilimanjaro thanks to tour companies because not everybody has the experience to climb alone. Me personally I like adventure and the independence to climb by myself but given that one has to summit with a guide in Tanzania I was very happy to climb with East African Voyage Company Limited. They allowed me the independence that I need to enjoy my trip as somebody who likes to do these things by myself.

biking On Kilimanjaro I Felt Like Sitting on the Wing of an Airplane

Andres biking from Mount Meru to Mount Kilimanjaro.

You biked from Arusha town to Arusha National Park. Then you climbed Mount Meru, the second highest mountain in Tanzania for four days. Next you biked from Momella Gate to Umbwe Gate from where you started a seven-day climb of Kilimanjaro, the highest free-standing mountain in the world. Where did you get that fascinating idea from?

Well, as I said I really enjoy putting together adventures for myself. I task myself physically especially in the outdoors and I got this idea because before I moved to Tanzania I lived in Colorado in the United States and I raced in duathlons (a single sporting event composed of two disciplines, in this case biking and trekking) which combined running and cycling. So I thought I should apply that concept to mountaineering and then basically ride my bicycle to the base of each mountain and then back and I wanted to do so continuously and wanted to do two mountains back to back. In short that is how I got the idea.

You climbed through East African Voyage Company Ltd. How did you know the company?

I was introduced to East African Voyage Company Limited by a former co-worker called Julie Veillette and as I was asking around for advice about which company is good for me to go with for something like this, that gave me that degree of independence where I did not feel like I was part of a huge group, in which I did not have a sense of personal satisfaction. She said that East African Voyage Company Limited can do this and that it is a small operation and also very qualified. That is how I became interested in it.

There are over 300 licensed tour operators in Tanzania. You surely had specific reasons for choosing East African Voyage Company Limited. What were your reasons?

Because I am normally somebody who does these activities on my own, I was initially skeptical about going with a tour company because I do not like to see that every single aspect of the trip is taken care of. I wanted to have some sense of personal accomplishment. I did not want to go with an enormous tour company that is impersonal. After speaking to Julie Veillette and getting to know a little more about East African Voyage Company Limited, I went with this company because they have highly trained staff and because they were willing to accommodate this idea. I thought they could be the perfect people to go with. For that very reason I wanted somebody who could organize things for me and help me with logistics but who, at the same time, agreed that maybe this guy want to climb Mount Kilimanjaro the hardest way possible, maybe he want to ride after Mount Meru and maybe he want to ride to and from and they were completely open to that and I appreciated that. I do not think every company out there could have organized this adventure for me, not at all.

What were the roles of the tour company in your remarkable achievement?

East African Voyage Company Limited helped me put together the itinerary. They also provided me with local knowledge on the mountains, because every mountain is different, as to what I probably need and what I will be facing. Most importantly they helped to coordinate the logistics from point to point and from day to day. I arrived at the Momella Gate and there was the vehicle ready waiting for me that I could put my bicycle into.

In short the company provided the necessary support. Along the way as I pedaled to these different places there was a car with me from some distance that I could count on if I had an accident. Also they obviously provided the equipment, food and organized porters. The services of the company were remarkable. They were excellent. I cannot imagine of any better.

How do you describe this unique combination of biking and climbing adventure?

I call it a “mountaineering duathlon”, that is what I can think of. This is my life experience. I never did anything like this before. I was wondering whether I could do it. I had the vision that this is something I could do. I did it. It was beautiful! It was beautiful as far as scenery, experience and spiritual aspects of being on these mountains but it was absolutely exhausting. It was a life time experience.

top of kili On Kilimanjaro I Felt Like Sitting on the Wing of an Airplane

On the roof of Africa Andres felt like sitting on a wing of an airplane.

You successfully summated Kilimanjaro. What are your comments?

I am very happy about it. I very much love the experience of summiting Mount Kilimanjaro. This is my first time on the mountain. It is the highest mountain in Africa. I hope in my life time to summit the highest mountain in each of the seven continents and this is a good start.

As I said before it is the most beautiful summit I have ever seen in my life. I never saw anything that wonderful, the sun coming up, the ice, the glaciers, the crater, the ash pit and all. It was a buffet, so to speak, of geological formations and colors and sights. It was phenomenal.

crater On Kilimanjaro I Felt Like Sitting on the Wing of an Airplane

Andres slept in the Crater on Mount Kilimanjaro.

Kilimanjaro is literally a stone-thrown away from the Equator. This highest free-standing mountain in the world is snow caped. Is this not amazing Andres?

Sure! I saw snow. I saw huge and beautiful glaciers on Mount Kilimanjaro. Seeing snow in Africa and along the Equator is something you cannot imagine. It is all over Kilimanjaro.

At night I slept in the crater, which was another interesting aspect of this trip. It was a personal record as far as overnighting at higher altitudes is concerned. I fell asleep to the sound of the glaciers creaking and popping which was a really nice experience in my life.

What do you remember mostly about this unique Kilimanjaro climbing adventure?

The ascent of the Western breach from Arrow Glacier to the Crater was surely intense, it was about four and half hours of walking absolutely straight up with a full pack at high altitude. Every time I turned around and stopped I felt like I was climbing in the clouds. That was really nice and obviously being on the summit you feel the cold air and hearing my boots crunch on snow and seeing the sun come up with the beautiful colors was phenomenal. One other thing that I really enjoyed on this trip was meeting everybody in my group. We shared jokes. I practiced a bit of Kiswahili. We ate the food together and many other things.

bike repair On Kilimanjaro I Felt Like Sitting on the Wing of an Airplane

East African Voyage crew helping Andres fix the bicycle.

What was the easiest and hardest part of the adventure?

The easiest part was enjoying it. I loved every second of it. I have nothing to regret at all. The logistics coordinated by East African Voyage Company Limited made the whole adventure easy.

The hardest part was some of the cycling. I rode a single speed bicycle. I had one gear. I had no suspension. It has neither shock-absorbers in the front nor in the rear. I chose one gear to make it more challenging. Riding from Protea Aishi Lodge to the Machame Gate is about 11 kilometers straight up on one gear and it was raining on me. That was the toughest part of the trip. Likewise the last 30 kilometers on the way back to Arusha from Mweka Gate were really hard. I dug deep in order to continue. Also, falling asleep in the crater was not easy. It was very high. I felt safe but it was a new experience. I did not sleep soundly. It was hard. I don’t think I slept at all. Maybe I slept for about two hours.

You used a single speed bicycle?

It is a Redline single speed mountain bike with 29 inches wheels which helps a bit with the climb given the fact that it is a single speed, the wheels are bigger than the standard mountain bikes. The frame is steel, which makes it easy to repair. It maintenance costs are comparatively low.

You had mountain sickness on Kilimanjaro?

No. Not even once! I felt very strong. I did not take any diamox and I carried my own pack all the time and I made sure it was fully weighted and it was not lighter than anybody else’s. I credit a lot of that to my training and also the fact that I was well nourished in the entire trip. My team ensured that I was drinking enough water all the time and I eat sufficient food.

Trekking Kilimanjaro: Interview With Henry Stedman

kilimanjaro guide Trekking Kilimanjaro: Interview With Henry StedmanKilimanjaro: The trekking guide to Africa’s highest mountain by Henry Stedman, a passionate trekker, author and travel writer, is now fully revised and expanded. An informative and enjoyable read, the book offers invaluable tips for complete beginners as well as experienced trekkers – giving you everything you need to know to reach Africa’s highest summit.

Providing detailed examples of costs, what to pack, when to go, recommended trekking agencies, up-to-date maps and descriptions of available routes, and much more, the guide helps you plan and complete your trip in the best way possible. You will learn the main reason for failing to reach the top, the meaning of the name Kilimanjaro, the history of Kili, useful expressions in Swahili, and interesting facts such as youngest versus oldest person to reach the top.

I especially like the chapters on minimum impact trekking, how to keep Kili clean, the porters’ daily life, and ways to help porters whose lot is not often a happy one. The new updated version also includes Mount Meru and guides to Marangu, Nairobi and Dar es Salaam.

kili Trekking Kilimanjaro: Interview With Henry StedmanAfter reading this well-put together and brilliant guidebook I felt curious to hear more about Henry Stedman’s passion for trekking and Kilimanjaro.

Erica Johansson: When did you first decide you wanted to climb Mount Kilimanjaro? Has it been a childhood dream or is your passion for Kili something you discovered later in life?

Henry Stedman: Visiting Africa was always my main dream. I remember being a small boy and watching one of David Attenborough’s wildlife programmes (‘Life on Earth’, I think it was) on television and wishing I could see all those wild animals for myself. I’m afraid I was a bit of a nerdy kid in that way; while my friends were all collecting football stickers, I collected a series of stickers on ‘Animals of Africa’ (I’ve still got the collection – and am still missing the mountain gorilla and the bushbaby, if anybody can help).

So Africa was always an obsession with me, and as I read more and more about the continent, so it didn’t take long, of course, before I stumbled across Kilimanjaro. And boy, the first time you see even a picture of Kilimanjaro is something you never forget – well, for me anyway.

So if you take my childhood love of Africa and combine it with my job as a travel writer that specialises in trekking, I suppose you could say it was inevitable that I would end up making a living (or trying to at least) on Africa’s highest mountain – and greatest trek: Kilimanjaro.

For how long have you been climbing?

One of the beauties of climbing Kilimanjaro is that there’s no actual climbing involved – just trekking. I’m no climber myself, and I wouldn’t know a belay.

Suppose my first serious trek would have been when I first went travelling after university at the age of 21. I went travelling with my mate Dave and, as part of our trip, visited Nepal where we completed the famous Annapurna Circuit – a three-week yomp around one of the most spectacular corners of the planet. Then, when I started travel writing about a dozen years ago, almost by accident I found a niche as a writer on trekking – and it’s what I’ve been doing ever since.

kilimanjaro Trekking Kilimanjaro: Interview With Henry Stedman

Kilimanjaro.

Actually, it was actually just about the easiest book I’ve ever written. There were some difficulties – in the book we include a chapter on Nairobi and Dar es Salaam, as many people fly into these places before making their way to Kili – and the Kenyan capital in particular can be a pretty dangerous place.

But overall, it was really straightforward. I’d already been writing guidebooks of about six years or so, and so I knew what I was doing. And because the book is about just one mountain (well, two if you include Kili’s neighbour Mount Meru, which we also write about), rather than an entire country, so as you can imagine the workload was as consequently less. Furthermore, the people in the region are also very helpful and willing to impart information, which made my job easier. And while the trekking itself can be a little hard, it’s also an incredible experience, which makes it is easier to write about.

But the main reason I found this book relatively easy to complete was because I just became obsessed with the mountain, so that even when I returned home I spent many hours poring over these dusty old books in the British Library reading everything I could about the place. When you have an infatuation like that, writing a book about it doesn’t seem like work at all.

You write in your book, “climb up Kili is to walk through four seasons in four days”. What is your favorite part and why?

My very favourite part of the walk is the moment when one leaves the forest and enters into an area of wild, flower-filled grasslands just before the heath and moorland zone properly begins. The forest itself is fascinating, with plenty of plants and animals to keep your mind off the fact that you’ve been walking uphill for the past few hours and your calf muscles are starting to scream. But then, after spending the entire first day marching in the shadow of these giant trees, you suddenly break out of the forest into these grasslands which glow orange in the early evening sun. On many of the routes this sudden break into the open is accompanied by one’s first view of the summit of Kilimanjaro itself – a suitable reward for all the efforts you’ve made during the day.

kilimanjaro view Trekking Kilimanjaro: Interview With Henry Stedman

Framed view of Kili.

To be honest I think there are many reasons. I’ve been writing about Kilimanjaro for over eight years now, and in that time I’ve climbed the mountain many times, with many different trekking agencies. So having been a client many times myself, I know what trekkers want – and what they don’t!

Perhaps the greatest advantage we have over other agencies is the new route that we are pioneering. When people think about climbing Kilimanjaro, they dream of several things: a true wilderness experience away from the crowds; the chance to see some of Africa’s famous native wildlife; and the cachet that comes with standing on the summit of Africa’s highest mountain.

With our new Unique Rongai Route, we’ve taken into account each of these dreams: because it is a unique route that other agencies don’t know about, so we manage to keep away from the crowds that swarm onto the Machame or Marangu trails. By avoiding the crowds and starting on the northern side of the mountain, which is bordered by Kenya’s Amboseli National Park, so our chances of spotting the local fauna is greater. And finally, by studying the topography of the mountain we have devised a route that we believe minimises one’s chances of contracting altitude sickness – and thus maximises people’s chances of reaching the summit.

Another advantage that we have is that I climb with every group. I know that just sounds like a boast, but I think it has important practical repercussions too. For if you book a climb in the States, UK or indeed anywhere outside of Tanzania, the tour operators you book with are actually just acting as middlemen. In other words, they take your money and sort out your trip, but when it comes to actually climbing the mountain you’re handed over to a local agency who sorts out the trek. As a result you’re placed in the hands of people whom you’ve probably never heard of, and have no idea if they are any good or not.

By insisting that I climb with every group, however, I can check that the standards of service, safety, food, etc. are maintained on the mountain and throughout the trek. I can also act as an extra pair of eyes and ears, spotting wildlife, checking on the health and fitness of the group, and can answer any questions people have about the mountain, its history, geology, flora and fauna etc.

Other advantages? Well, we have always taken the issue of porter welfare and safety very seriously, which is becoming an increasingly important concern amongst trekkers. In the book we write at great length about the work of the Kilimanjaro Porters Assistance Project (KPAP) and we continue to work closely with them and implement their recommendations.

Lastly, having climbed the mountain so many times I know who are the best guides, cooks, porters etc. – and I think I’ve gathered a great team together to accompany us on the trek.

For more information about Henry Stedman and how to join him on a trek to Kilimanjaro, visit Climb Mount Kilimanjaro.